This palm-like plant is really not a palm at all, but related to the conifer and ginkgo trees. They are all cone bearing plants. The cycads are sometimes referred to as "living fossils" because they have changed little in the 200 million years since the Mesozoic Era.

There are about 15 species of cycads, but I will address the most popular one, which is the Cycas revoluta. It is native to the Far East and sometimes also called the Japanese Sago Palm.

In the Southern zones of United States, there are three species. The Cycas revoluta (king sago palm), the Cycas circinalis (queen sago palm), and the Cycas taitungensis (prince / emperor sago palm).

Generally, the temperature range of all sago is 15 to 110 degrees F.

The queen sago can only withstand temperatures down to 55 degrees F.

The king sago will tolerate colder temperatures, surviving short periods of 32 degrees F, if given some protection. The king sago also will grow larger, sometimes reaching heights up to six feet.

The prince sago is also cold hardy and a faster grower than the king sago.

The humidity range is from dry to wet which is a pretty large range.

It is reported that sagos will grow faster in the landscape than as a container plant. For the most part, they are very easy to grow. Full sun or partial shade is ideal. As with most plants, good drainage is important. In addition, a neutral pH soil is best (6.5 to 7.0). It is good to fertilize on a regular basis during the growing season, which is generally March through September. A county agent once suggested if you are trying to really increase the size of the sago plant to use a palm fertilizer four times a year. That would be in March, May, July, and September. Some suggest to fertilize when the new growth emerges in the spring. Most sagos will only have one sprout of crowning - called a "break" per year. However, with extra fertilization there may be a second crown of fronds.

It is best to remember when the new leaves emerge for the season they do so in a circular pattern and are tender. At this time, do not transplant your sago.

As mentioned before, the rate of growth is somewhat slow to medium. Under the best of conditions with hot summers and mild winters there have been reports of three new sets of leaves and an increase of one inch in trunk height. Do not expect this under normal conditions. Definitely not as container plants and because of this they are ideal bonsai specimens.

Sago will grow in full sun outside and acclimate to some shade. However, the acclimation towards being an indoor houseplant is good if given bright light or some morning and afternoon sun.

It is important to note that sagos generally produce seed every other year. One can easily tell the difference between a female sago and male sago. Both develop cones. These are clusters of modified leaves. These leaves will protect the pollen and the future developing seeds from drying out. The male plants will form an elongated cone-like upright structure. The female has a rounded soft velvet-like center. The seeds will be bright orange in color.

As with most plants, there are some problems to look out for. A condition called frizzle top is probably the most common problem. This is a manganese deficiency causing the new leaves or upper leaves to turn yellow. This will start as spots and eventually the entire leaf is covered. There is a way to correct this. Spray the leaves with manganese sulfate. Once a month for three months mix one teaspoon of manganese sulfate per gallon of water. You can also apply one to five pounds (gauging with the size of the plant) of manganese to the soil in the springtime to correct or prevent the problem. Along with this recommendation, it is always wise to have a soil pH check and to check the moisture content of the soil. As always, too much water and less than desirable drainage will cause root damage. If that is the case, the sago will be unable to absorb the nutrients.

The most common insect problem sagos have are scale insects. The magnolia white scale being the most common.

Recently there is a scale from Southeast Asia that is becoming very serious. To date nothing has been able to fight the condition. The affected cycads are coated with a white crust. Scales will suck all the juices out of the leaves and the cycad will die in a matter of weeks.

Another consideration with the sagos is cold damage. When temperatures reach dangerous levels, many people cover their plants during a freeze. If the central growing area is protected the plant will survive. If the leaves turn brown, they will not return to green. It is best to trim these off when the weather warms up but not until then.

Here are some other conditions that may indicate a problem.

Old leaves may turn yellow from over watering or too much fertilizer.

New leaves may turn yellow from excessive fertilizer and in general poor soil conditions.

The yellowing and browning leaves can be removed from the plant with no harm to the mother plant and will enhance the beauty of the sago. When trimming cut as close to the trunk as possible. This will encourage new leaves to emerge also.

Propagation

Propagating is by seed and from the pups or offsets at the base of the plant.

Propagating by seed will require some patience. Wait until the seeds are mature, usually when the cone has fallen apart. Dr. Dehgan of the University of Florida states that the success of the seeds will increase if the seeds are refrigerated at 45 to 55 degrees F for two months. At this point, the outer pulp of the seeds can be removed. You may also want to serrate the seeds to encourage germination. Plant the seeds sideways in a well-drained soil; keep moist but not soggy. Germination will take place in three to nine months. I suggest you wear gloves since cycads contain carcinogens, which can be absorbed by the skin.

Propagation is more fun with an immediate plant already in hand. The side shoots or pups sometimes are produced after a severe winter or trunk injury. When separating them from the mother plant be careful not to injure the base plant. They can be removed early spring, late fall, or winter. A hand trowel will work nicely. You may want to let the pups cure for a few days before planting them. Planting should be done in a well-drained soil, probably a sandy mixture is better. Be sure that 1/2 of the ball or trunk is below soil level. Settle in with water, but then do not water until it is thoroughly dried. For acclimation and protection do this in partial shade.

Rooting will be slow. It may be several months before new leaves will appear.

This is not an easy task but highly doable.

Transplanting

The biggest and most traumatic event in the life of a sago will be in moving and transplanting it to a different location. The most important factor is to do this activity when the plant is not actively growing - winter or early spring.

A few considerations and you will be successful. Because some of the roots may be damaged when digging it is suggested you remove some of the lower leaves.

If you own a small sago measuring six inches or less this is can easily be accomplished, with minimal root damage. First, trim some of the leaves from the bottom. Take as much of the root ball as possible. Be sure you dig about six inches away from the trunk. Working early in the day is helpful to the plant. Replant in a hole the same level it was growing.

You can add a mixture of 1/2 garden soil from the original hole and 1/2 peat moss but good drainage is essential.

A larger sago that measure 8 - 10 inches or more in diameter - and taller than 12 inches will require more effort. The tree trunk is heavy in itself, and you may need support help to make the move. Prepare your new location hole in the same way as for a smaller sago.

Water when the soil becomes dry. New leaves will emerge by the summer. Sometimes replanting or transplanting makes the cycad out of sync but in time, everything will be back to normal in a years time.

It is well worth trying to save larger cycads in the landscape. This plant material can be pricey to replace.

Remember, longevity is key with this plant. At the Huntington Gardens in San Marino, California, a cycad was planted over 80 years ago. There is also a 220 year old specimen of Encephalarto, a relative of the cycad, at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew. It is living happily ever after, after being transplanted during their palm house restoration.

Sago Projects
Some questions from Emily's mailbox:

Q: I have a 6 foot tall female King Sago.  There are (5) pups surrounding this.  And since we just moved in, you can imagine our wish - Moving It!  I blame my wife, but agree with her all the same.  It completely blocks our front door and spoils both our view out and others view in.

Your page on King Sagos talks about transplanting up to 8" diameter trunks, how about 15 + inch diameter, when, how, etc....

A: I once defined gardening as "the moving of organic matter from one part of the yard to another, at various times of the year, for various reasons."

The size really only matters in the effort that it will require.

The timing is the same: "The most important factor is to do this activity when the plant is not actively growing - winter or early spring." That's from the EmilyCompost page.  All the other books say the same: not to replant when it is actively growing - in late spring or summer.

Good luck.

Q: I have a sago palm in my yard. Last winter the snow got on it and the leaves turned brown. In August, I pruned it all the way back. The cone is light yellow, but has not opened up. I am afraid I have killed the palm. Can you help me? (Oak Island, NC)

A: At the suggestion of snow I can only detect you are in an area where Sagos should not be grown. North Carolina will not winter over sagos. This is a tropical cycad and will not tolerate cold temperatures. If grown in a container and just summered out it will do fine if brought in for the winter months.

Q: I have a Sago Palm that is in a small container in the house. I have had it about one year in which three new leaves have emerged. Now the four older leaves have turned brown and are falling off. I had moved it from a west window to a east window and believe it got too hot and/or I did not water enough to compensate for the eastern exposure. I have cut the old leaves off and the new leaves are still green. My question: do you think I can save this plant or is it just going to die? Should I move it back to a west window?

A: Yes, I think you can save this sago plant.

It is normal for some of the bottom fronds to drop off; this is part of the growing process. Especially since the new ones are green and still doing fine.

They probably liked the west window because of all the good sunlight. Especially so, since your plant is indoors.

Be sure not to over water this plant.

It is a very durable plant material.

Q: I live in Houston Texas. I just bought a house with a Sago Palm in the front yard. It looked healthy, putting out new leaves this summer. Recently some of the new leaves have begun to yellow in the middle. This is not like the older leaves at the bottom which yellow and turn brown, I assume as a part of the normal growth cycle. Am I right to assume this is a nutrition issue? If so, what fertilizer should I use to restore this plant to good health?

A: Yes, this may be a nutritional issue, a lack of manganese in the soil. Very common for this plant. In soils that are high pH soils and very acid sandy soils will have this deficiency. Also, check the moisture. Too moist and things will start to turn yellow. The condition is called "frizzle top".

I would have your soil checked at the local extension service. They should be able to tell you what the possibilities are. The agent may also suggest giving your plant some manganese. Manganese sulfate at the rate of one teaspoon per gallon of water monthly for 3 months.

Other than that you can get a palm fertilizer and fertilize the sago four times a year during the growing season.

Q: My in-laws live in Port Aransas, Texas. They have many sago's and have a growing nursery of the little pups. They have given my husband and I several plants and we plan to plant them in our yard in San Antonio. They also have two or three large sago's that have produced double cones. I have several questions; what can you do about this? Does this mean the plant is splitting in to two plants and can be separated later? What happens to the cones? Do they fall off after a certain length of time? They also have two female plants and you can see the seeds growing. Is it true that only the male plant produces the pups?

A: Double cones for sago is quite common. In fact my neighbor has one growing now that I am going to take a picture of and use on the site. No, it does not mean that the plant is splitting in two. Wait 'til the cones start to fall apart before collecting the seeds. This is only one of two ways that the sago propagates. Pups on the side (any plants) and seeds. Seeds of course will take longer. Ironically, the sago will form side shoots at the base of the trunk as a response to injury.

There is a queen sago and a king sago and a prince/emperor sago plant. The queen you will only see grown in south Florida. The king will tolerate colder weather .The king sago's are slow growing but may reach up to 4 or 6 feet in height.

Q: We just recently bought a home with a gorgeous King Sago Palm. It has recently produced two cones and has many baby palms that have also recently just sprung up all around the base of the plant. They look like baby sagos. My questions are, Can we remove the cones, and if so, how do we this (they are pretty unsightly). In addition, regarding the new babies, is it ok to just leave them there (if so, how big will they get) or do they need to be removed.

A: I would leave the double cones on the sago plant. This is a natural occurrence, although not that common to have a double. This is the reproduction process the plant is going through. The cones will eventually become seeds and later can be used to make more sagos. You have a male plant producing a cone where a female produces a round felt mass in the center . Typically, all sagos bloom every other year.

The baby sagos are just that - 'pups' that the plant has reproduced. You may cut or slice these babies off to share with others or just to have more sagos. You will not harm the plant at all. This is a very common occurrence. Dry the pups for about a week then plant in a well drained sandy soil where half of the ball will be above ground. Allow to become dry before watering. Start them first in a shady area before moving to a brighter indoor or outdoor area. . Roots will appear and the first leaves will begin to appear. You can fertilize with a mild dose of fertilizer.

Sagos grow larger and faster in the ground than in pots.

Good luck, sounds like you have a great plant.

Q: We purchased a sago palm from Lowe's about six months ago. Since then, it has not grown a bit. No new leaves, nothing. However, it is not dead. It is still green and looks healthy. It is in our front yard along with two other sago's and the other do very well. Always getting new leaves.
Do you have any suggestions on what to do to help this little one out?

A: Your little sago will do just fine. This is a moderately slow growing cycad, not a true palm.

It produces its fronds once a year. They grow out of the center in a circular pattern. This may have already happen for the sago this year.

You should water and fertilize to the needs of the plant in what amounts of light it is receiving. Sagos will grow in partial shade to full sun. The more the light the better the growth and the more you can fertilize.

Fertilizing is generally applied during the spring and late summer .Too little plant food is better than too much. Do not let any of the fertilizer fall into the crown of the plant, this will burn.

The soil should be well drained and rich in humus, although these durable plants seem to grow in almost anything. Sagos prefer to be more on the dry side than the wet side.

And well established plants will survive droughts very well.

These plants are legendary. They have not only outlived dinosaurs but also will survive all adverse forces of mother nature as well as man.

Q: I have a question about moving a Sago Palm. We currently have a Sago in the front of our house with a spread of close to 10'. Besides obscuring most of the front porch, it also blocks most of the walkway leading to the front door. In short, we would like to move this monster to the back yard.

The plant is too large to attempt relocation with the leaves intact. How much can we trim without killing the Sago? If we remove all of the leaves and just move the root ball and cone, will the plant regenerate through the spring and summer?

A: Never prune more than 1/3 of any plant material regardless if you are transplanting it or not. Removing more of the sago will not regenerate itself quickly enough for you. They are moderate growers, although you seem to have a great one.

It is a good idea to move your sago for all the reasons you list- you are wise to do so. The new leaves grow from the inner circle and spread out. They will emerge all at once for the season's growth. They will be tender at first but will harden over several weeks. Do not transplant during this period........ so if this has already happened you may want to wait. Just in case the new location may have a different light situation, long leaves will be a result of low light and the shorter leaves will be from brighter light.

Hope this helps a little.

Do not forget to watch it carefully this summer and water well if we develop a drought. Mulch about 3 inches worth of mulch and keep away from the root stem so insects and disease do not develop.

Q: We planted a tiny sago palm around 10 years ago. At first it was slow to grow and in the past few years it has shot up: its width equaling its height of around 5 ft. Last year it had its first crop of female seeds to our amazement (we had no idea about sago - just bought it for its appearance). Around its base are a dozen babies and unfortunately its width means that we now have to either move the plant or the house.

We would like to save the babies and move the mother to the back yard. When we cut the babies off do we need to dress the wound in any way to save them and the mother? Its all a bit nerve racking as it is a most beautiful specimen. We live in Australia and just coming into autumn. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

A: Sago can be easily moved after taking the babies 'pups' off from the sides of the plant. I am not aware of any protection to the original plant itself for protection after the pups have been taken off. However,,,,, after the pups have been removed set them aside so the raw spots have a time to dry for a week or so. Plant in a well drained soil or sandy mixture so that half of the ball or trunk is below soil level - water thoroughly. Allow the soil to become nearly dry before watering. It is best to start pups in a shady area or a bright indoor area.

Q: We are mourning the loss of one of our Jack Russell Terriers to eating a Sago Palm seed. Our house is very quiet and our other two Jack Russells miss their young friend. We had NO idea how poisonous Sago seeds are. We have approximately nine large Sagos in our backyard. It appears that three of them are female seed producers. Is there any way to remove the seed area before it produces seeds? Can one cut out that fuzzy center area? If yes, what time of year? We live in Jacksonville Florida. We are also willing to move any or all of the Sagos. We have a 4 year old child and two dogs and do not want to go through anything like this EVER again. Thank you for your thoughts.

A: I am sorry to hear about your Jack Russell Terrier. Yes, I am afraid sago seeds are dangerous.

Sago plants flower and produce cones in late May or there about, when it is time to pollinate. Seeds develop through the summer. I would watch for that development and then start pinching off......and not letting them get to maturity......mature seeds are then harvested in January and February.....perhaps sooner....in your location of JAX. Seeds of course are bright red and easily noticed.

Sagos develop well and grow in partial shade and full sun. Now is a good time of the year to relocate if you are thinking of doing such. Before the hot temperatures happen.

Hope this helps a little.

Q: We recently bought a house with two sago palms in the front yard. After a stretch of very cold weather (temps in single digits) along with ice/snow, our palms have turned brown. Does this mean they are dead or is there any hope for their resurrection?

A: Yes, this cold did a lot of harm to young plants and plants that maybe are stretching the temperate zone that they may be planted in.

Sago palms (not a true palm but a cycad) especially were hit in the southeast.

I am afraid those fronds that show signs of frost bite and have turned brown will eventually dry up and fall off. Mother Nature's way of pruning I am afraid. The plant may continue to live but those areas that were killed by the frost will not come back.

Q: Hello I have a sago palm in my backyard and I don’t really know much about it.

A: Sago palms grow well in good bright light, they may acclimate to full sun in maturity. You may mulch around the base of the trunk but be sure not to have the mulch touch the trunk, keeping a good 3 inches away. Water during periods of drought. Generally one inch per week should be sufficient.

Fertilize with milorganite, 10-10-10 or some palm fertilizer following the instructions on the bag.

In the winter if your area is in severe danger of deep temperatures, cover with an old bedspread 'til things warm up.

Q: I purchased a Sago Palm about a month ago. I replanted it in a pot fairly close to what it was in before. I added some potting soil, time release evergreen fertilizer and black cow to the bottom of the pot. My husband drilled four holes at the bottom of the pot for drainage. We placed it on our deck where it gets full sun.

I have not added much water, since I do not want it to be to damp. However in the new growth area, the inner circle of palms at the very bottom the leaves are turning dry. Every thing I have read indicates this should not be happening with a healthy and happy plant!

A: You have done all the correct things in repotting your sago. Maybe by now the problem has corrected itself. Often times when plants are repotted they do show signs of stress and strain and this may be significant in many ways. Others do not blink an eye.

I would move any plant that is repotted in the shade and morning sun only for a few weeks and then acclimate into the sun.

In a pot, the sago may need more watering than normal but for the most part these plants do not need a large amount. Their leaves are quite thick and the rule of thumb: applies: "the thinner the leaf the more water needed" and vice versa.

Sometimes the new growth that was just about to happen when the plant was repotted causes a downturn.

Hope it has cleared up.